Since we left Portsmouth the weather has been pretty dire. Mostly very strong winds, heavy rain and rocky seas but, just like Horta, Bermuda brought some relief. It was a gloriously warm sunny day.
The ship docked in the British Royal Naval Dockyard, adjacent to a 19th Century fort which provided a stronghold for more than 150 years.
The fortifications were built to defend Britain’s superiority of the sea, but now within the walls where soldiers once marched are flower beds, a museum and a very nice pub where I enjoyed a decent pint of locally brewed beer.
I also took a trip to the capital, Hamilton, and had a stroll along the waterfront. It was quiet, everything closes on a Sunday.
Suddenly the silence was broken by a fast rhythmic drum beat. At first it was in the distance but gradually getting closer. I walked towards the sound and met a small procession quickly coming towards me.
It was quite spectacular, very colourful dancers in full masquerade making fast sweeping and swirling dance movements. The lead dancer carried a threatening bull-whip which was clearly a symbolic part of the ritual.
When they stopped I asked one of the drummers what it was all about. He explained that it was the tradition of “Gombey” originally started by ex-slaves but now enjoyed by all sections of the community.
A strong similarity with Morris dancing was noticeable.
We are now back on the rolling sea and within the “Bermuda Triangle” heading towards The Bahamas. Providing we can avoid the sea monsters, we should arrive there early Wednesday morning.
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