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Three years ago a massive volcanic eruption and tsunami in Tonga caused catastrophic damage, with homes destroyed and many communities covered in a thick layer of ash.

The port area, where we docked, in Tonga’s capital, Nuku’alofa, was badly damaged when the tsunami hit.

My destination that day was the Oholei beach resort, a small tourist attraction owned for several generations by a local family but which had also been devastated by the effects of the 2022 eruption.

We experienced heavy seas during our voyage from Raiatea and the skies were now overcast but it was very warm and several in our group took the opportunity to bathe in the calm waters of the lagoon.

The coastal cliffs were composed of limestone, remnants of an ancient coral bed. The captivating Hina cave had been sculpted over millennia by the relentless forces of the sea.

Gasps of amazement could be heard, as people entered the cavern and began to appreciate it’s huge size.

It was time for a refreshing drink so one of the employees walked up a tall tree and picked a couple of coconuts.

He then skilfully split them using a machete, with hardly a drop of milk being spilt.

In the cooking area outside the restaurant lunch was being prepared.

Two pigs were being spit roast, but in addition chicken, lamb and fish with an assortment of weird and wonderful vegetables were being cooked in the Tongan underground oven called a ‘Umu’.

After lunch it was time for the traditional culture show. It was delightful.

The current owner continued to develop the business created by his father until the tsunami struck in January 2022 when they lost everything.

The facilities were by no means perfect, but Tongans are very friendly and happy people and it was heart-warming to see the whole family working so hard, making good use of the basic resources available, to rebuild the business and restore the livelihoods of everyone involved.

The performance ended with the owner’s grandson, a 14 year old boy doing a fire dance! Seriously, it is a wonder the place didn’t burn down, but their hearts and souls were in the show.

On the way back to the Bolette, our guide received a message on her phone. It was a cyclone warning for the following day. She looked a little concerned….

A Souvenir from the Beach

While strolling along the Oholei beach, I spotted a small piece of coral and a very attractive pink and white shell both of which would make nice ornamental souvenirs of Tonga, so I picked them up and put them in my bag.

Back in my cabin onboard Bolette, I decided to give them a clean but when I put the shell under the tap the ‘pebble’ blocking the entrance moved. The ‘pebble’ was actually the closed claw of a hermit crab.

Then its eyes on stalks, tentacles and body started to appear. Looking far too large to have squeezed into that shell, it was straining to nip my fingers as I held on trying to decide what to do with the unfortunate creature and it’s chosen accommodation.

I’m sorry to say, I had no choice but to launch it back into the sea from my balcony.

International Date Line

Just before reaching Tonga, we crossed the International Date Line at 20:54 on 22nd February, so we lost Sunday 23rd and it immediately became Monday 24th. We were 11 hrs behind GMT but immediately became 13 hours ahead. We then put our clocks and watches back an hour and are due to do that again tonight so will become 11 hours ahead of GMT on Sunday. (Just thought I would clarify that).

Two Cyclones

After Tonga we experienced very rough seas for a couple of days, as the ship was carefully navigated to, as far as possible, avoid two cyclones tracking across our route to Australia. Thankfully, all is calm again now as we head towards Sydney. We are due to arrive there on Monday morning.