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We were up very early that morning to start an intensive, yet amazing, five days in ‘darkest’ Africa.

We had docked in the South African Port of Gqeberha, previously known as Port Elizabeth, from where we took a flight to Johannesburg, the ‘City of Gold’ and checked in at our very comfortable ’54 on Bath’ hotel. We were then taken to see the sights in the township of Soweto.

Overall I’m afraid this was not a very enjoyable visit, but it was an experience I shall never forget.

Nelson Mandela is understandably a source of immense pride for many Africans. His remarkable determination and leadership were instrumental in overcoming the violence and injustice of apartheid. However, the years following his legacy have left his hometown of Soweto struggling, with little to reflect the progress or hope he once inspired.

Unemployment is alarmingly high and reported to be increasing. In the streets we were surrounded by persistent beggars. We were asked to discourage them by not giving them any money.

We saw the previous home of Desmond Tutu and, in the same street, visited Nelson Mandela’s house with gunshot scars on the external walls, a reflection of it’s violent history.

Sadly, the street where they both had lived is now adorned with disrespectful graffiti.

Lunch served at a nearby open-sided eating place, brought some relief. The facilities were basic but the food was very good and served by delightfully happy and helpful local people. We were also entertained by a group of buskers who leaned in over a barrier separating us from the street. Their rhythmic songs reminiscent of Paul Simon’s Graceland LP and the Ladysmith Black Mambazo group.

We went on to visit a water feature – a monument dedicated to Desmond Tutu. Unfortunately, this site had also fallen victim to vandalism and was in need of repair and care, underscoring the challenges faced in the area.

Our brief visit to Soweto presented an atmosphere that seemed to be anchored in the echoes of past accomplishments and in need of a visionary and inspiring leader to rise again.

That evening, Bolette departed on its voyage to Cape Town. In the meantime, after one night in Johannesburg we were to visit the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and the Chobe Game Reserve in Botswana before re-joining our ship in Cape Town four days later.