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We crossed from Zimbabwe to Botswana around mid-day and boarded 4 x 4 vehicles for the journey to the game lodge.

A reminder of home was spotted, at the boarder checkpoint. A coach in ‘Cymru Coaches’ livery was parked in a compound. We guessed it to be a second-hand purchase for use by an African operator.

The drivers referred to the ride to the lodge as a ‘Botswana massage’. It was the fiercest massage that I’ve ever had.

With a welcome drink on arrival, we were given a safety talk, the main points being not to lean out of the vehicles and, perhaps more surprisingly, that we were not to travel around the lodge walkways during the hours of darkness without being escorted by a ranger.

The lodge grounds are completely open and it is apparently not unusual to see wild animals, including a lion or two, on the walkways between the reception/restaurant block and the accommodation rooms. I was quite happy to comply.

We also had a free laundry service and a free bar. Even the drinks in the minibar were free. Somehow they must have known we would be too shattered to take advantage.

The lodge is located on the banks of the Chobe river, a tributary of the Zambezi and, after lunch, relaxation and afternoon tea, we were ready for our first excursion, a sunset cruise on the river.

There are at least 45,000 elephants on this huge reserve.

Having had his drink, the monitor lizard started walking along the river bank…

…towards the crocodile.

‘This looks interesting’ said our ranger. But on spotting the crocodile, the lizard stopped suddenly. For a few seconds it assessed the situation, then took a rectangular detour up the river bank, around a clump of vegetation and back down a few feet past the croc, to continue its intended walk.

A black cloud created a dramatic lighting effect in the late afternoon sunlight.

A bull elephant splashed and rolled in the water.

He stopped when he saw us and I wondered how fast he could travel in water, compared to a solar powered boat.

He decided that we were not a threat and went back to his water fun.

But another bull on land first looked at us and then turned his attention to the bather. There was confrontation!

The one in the water clearly resented being disturbed during his afternoon dip and climbed out of the water. Tusk to tusk they sparred for a few minutes, I have it on video. We moved further up stream so missed the final result, but I think it all ended amicably.

The river forms the boarder with Namibia. The game reserve is only on the Botswana side but a herd of elephants were swimming across towards the Namibian farmland.

What a fantastic day! But there’s more to come, a lot more. Tomorrow we start with a 4 x 4 safari.