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While travelling through the reserve there were occasional reminders, such as the one in the above image, that it is indeed ‘wild’ and we were in the land of apex predators.

On our final day, we had time for just one safari before flying to Cape Town to re-join Bolette and, for this, everyone could choose between riverboat or 4×4 vehicle. I chose the latter.

Before setting out, our ranger that morning, Ann, asked what we would like to see. As the only lion we had encountered so far had been half-hidden in a bush and fast asleep – and with the boastful tales of our colleagues from the previous day still echoing in our minds – our group replied in resounding unison, ‘A lion walking, please, Ann!’. ‘Ok’ she said, and off we went.

I was intrigued by Ann’s driving technique as she sped for short distances and then leaned over her door to examine the marks in the dusty tracks. A benefit of our lodge being inside the reserve was that we could always be the first on the scene and, without doubt, Ann was making good use of the undisturbed animal tracks still visible.

With her help, we could see in the above example, evidence of an elephant walking in our direction (upwards in the image), followed by a lion walking in the opposite direction.

Below she was outlining the mark of a hippopotamus. I’m afraid I have forgotten the several other animal tracks she was able to identify, although clearly there are lion prints close to the hippo.

I think the attractive bird in the images below is a species of kingfisher. Hopefully Andy will confirm. (And he has, it is a White-fronted Bee-eater)

Suddenly Ann stopped the vehicle. There was fresh evidence of where a lion had been laying-down. (Top half of the image below). We proceeded slowly and quietly.

And before long, there it was, a lion walking. Ann had delivered!

There were two males, one walking around and one laying nearby. A couple of other vehicles stopped presumably having been in radio contact. We watched and photographed them for 15 or 20 minutes. Eventually one approached the other from behind and seemingly playfully bite the other’s head. Both roared. (I have it on video.)

Eventually it was time to move on in search of more animals.

We had not driven far when, as we turned a corner, the scene below immediately came into view. Ann quickly stopped the vehicle and switched off the engine.

People in the vehicle back row stood up to get a better view and in a quiet but anxious voice she told them to sit and remain very still. It was a tense moment as the lion cubs were ushered into hiding by the lioness.

While her companion remained asleep, and having concealed her cubs, the lioness walked towards us.

In our open sided vehicle, I felt quite vulnerable and, certainly, the person nearest to the lioness, on that side of the vehicle, visibly froze, sitting silent and motionless until she passed.

She circled us and then both lionesses disappeared into the undergrowth.

Our experience resulted in a prolonged silence which only ended as Ann restarted the engine and we gradually moved forwards to continue the journey.

Further on, we encountered a group of four or five buffalos. We paused to observe them, but one seemed to fix its gaze on us. After a few moments, Ann suggested we retreat swiftly. She shared her ability to interpret the behaviour of most animals, yet warned that buffalos were entirely unpredictable. These massive, powerful creatures are capable of causing significant harm, so it’s always wise not to take unnecessary risks.

We were out for three or four hours. It was a wonderful experience, and the time passed quickly.

Back at the lodge we shared our gratitude with Ann, she was certainly the star of the show that morning. (Or was it the lions?) Then, after a very welcome breakfast it was time for a dash to the airport. Missing the plane would also mean missing our ship, so we now had to hurry.

We had a flight to Johannesburg then another to Cape Town. We reached the port after 9pm that evening, the ship was waiting for us. It’s sailing had been delayed to the limit, but we just made it. William was visibly relieved as missing the ship would have resulted in a very costly ‘plan B’ for the company and in any case we were shattered.

It took two or three days to recover from the whole experience, but it really was worth it.